Cutiile de viteze automate

[automaticul]

s-ar potrivi o cutie de vit automata de la un mercedes c200 diesel din 1997 la un mercedes c220 diesel din 1995?

Buna seara, daca este 722.4 se poate potrivi, dar trebuie sa se verifice inainte , seria cutiei ,design, lungimea cutiei.
Asa trebuie sa arate o carcasa de cutie pregatita de asamblare, apropo, nu trebuie sa va sperie faptul ca ati vazut o gramada de piese pe masa , poate asa intelegeti ce se afla intr-o cutie automata , cum se repara in adevaratul sens al cuvantului si astfel veti incepe sa le intretineti la fel ca pe motoare, schimbandu-le uleiul regulat si acordandu-le respectul cuvenit.

[Tyler]

Am o întrebare la adresa d-voastră.
Dacă am schimbat uleiul la cutie se mai poate să mai întâmpin probleme cu cutia?Modelul este w202 C180, cutie automată 722.4.Mașina are 200 de mii de km cu ea, și aș vrea să-mi spuneți cam cât mai duce această cutie, în km dacă se poate, estimativ.Sau eventual ce ar mai trebui schimbat la ea ca să nu am probleme niciodată cu ea, în afară de înlocuirea uleiului, desigur.Vreau s-o păstrez pe viață, cu cutia originală.Mulțumesc.

[automaticul]

Am o întrebare la adresa d-voastră.
Dacă am schimbat uleiul la cutie se mai poate să mai întâmpin probleme cu cutia?Modelul este w202 C180, cutie automată 722.4.Mașina are 200 de mii de km cu ea, și aș vrea să-mi spuneți cam cât mai duce această cutie, în km dacă se poate, estimativ.Sau eventual ce ar mai trebui schimbat la ea ca să nu am probleme niciodată cu ea, în afară de înlocuirea uleiului, desigur.Vreau s-o păstrez pe viață, cu cutia originală.Mulțumesc.

Buna seara, teoretic nu ar trebui sa fie probleme, practic insa pot apare in orice moment, fie ca este o cutie de generatie veche sau noua,
In cazul cutiilor automate , nu se poate preciza, viata unei cutii , mai ales daca nu este intretinuta si folosita corect .
Cutiile automate au si ele probleme de proiectare , functionare , sunt facute de oameni care mai gresesc si ei , nu s-a facut inca ,, cutia care sa te tina o vesnicie.
Dupa cum ati vazut in fotografii , avem o multime de piese si piesisoare care toate la un loc formeza aceasta cutie , DACA una din aceste piese cedeaza,apare acel efect de domino, care trag dupa ele si alte piese care se deterioreaza,
In cazul cutiilor automate ,ca sunt mai vechi sau mai noi , avem foarte multe elemente de etansare ,care sunt din cauciuc, teflon , plastic, , E, aici este problema, in cazul motoarelor, TOTI, dati atentie garniturilor de cauciuc care etanseaza capacele de culbutori , schimbam acele garnituri si gata , mai schimbam si furtunele de apa ca de , sau cam copt si pierdem apa din motor, daca pierdem ceva ulei pe la garnitura de chiulasa , imediat la mecanic ,dam jos chiulasa si remediem problema, daca motorul se incalzeste putin peste 80 de grade, luam foc , vai, s-a incalzit motorul , nu se poate, am o problema.
Trebuie sa intelegeti ca si in aceste cutii automate sunt garnituri de cauciuc, care se coc si ele la fel ca cele de la motor, mai ales ca temperatura uleiului este constanta peste 100 de grade , ceea ce face ca acele elemente de etansare sa isi piarda din proprietati , adica acel cauciuc nu mai este atat de moale si nu mai poate etansa cum trebuie , la fel se intampla cu teflonul si elementele de plastic din interiorul cutiilor.
Voi posta in continuare cateva lucruri legate de viata unei cutii automate , care este de fapt asa zis-ul secret




Today, in the interest of curbing air pollution and increasing efficiency and fuelASE Certified auto repair technicians mileage, the transmission has been downsized and is usually in the engine compartment. Engines are designed to run at over 200 degrees, Air Conditioning has become standard, electric radiator fans only come on when they are really necessary and wind tunnel-designed bodies reduce air flow over the running gear (say transmission.)

The Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association estimates that 90% of all transmission failures are due to transmission and transmission fluid overheating. The oxidation rate (which determines the useful lubrication life) of automatic transmission fluid doubles for every 20 degrees F. temperature increase over the normal operating level. This means fluid that's formulated to last 100,000 miles at 175 degrees F. will only go 50,000 at 195 degrees F., or a mere 3,000 miles at 275 degrees F. Oxidized transmission fluid does not lubricate the transmission properly, causes seals to harden and leads to early failure.

Frequent servicing of the transmission can extend your Automatic Transmission's life dramatically. The recommend servicing interval for the type of driving normally encountered by the average driver is every 30,000 miles with standard fluid and 60,000 - 90,000 miles with long-life fluid. Vehicles that do excessive stop and go driving or towing should be serviced more often. Transmission coolers are also recommended for any vehicle towing often or anytime towing heavy loads. Once the transmission fluid becomes oxidized, a flush is recommended, since under normal servicing, only about 50% of the fluid can be drained out.


Fluids
Most manufactures now have special fluids for their transmissions that differ from make to make. While there are
universal fluids out there, they may not perform as well as the manufactures specified fluid and may cause shifting problems or eventual transmission failure.

Because of damage caused by incorrect fluids being put in their automatic transmissions, many manufactures have removed the dipstick/filler tubes from newer cars and trucks, requiring special procedures to check fluid levels and add fluid.


AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID

Automatic transmission fluid is probably the single-most complex and highly-engineered lubricant used in an automobile, including even the most sophisticated, synthetic motor oils. They are typically made from as many as 20 different elements, whereas a common motor oil may only contain 8-10. At higher, elevated operating temperatures, automatic transmission fluid can oxidize rapidly, leading to complete transmission fluid failure in a short amount of time. ‘Oxidation’ is simply the result of the transmission fluid absorbing oxygen, which in turn causes it to dramatically increase its viscosity, or thickness. Heavily oxidized automatic transmission fluid is not the nice and thin, relatively low viscosity fluid that is needed to properly lubricate and cool your transmission. No, oxidized transmission fluid is thick and ‘gooey’, does not lubricate well, causes a dramatic increase in heat and friction, and…well, you know the rest. Severely oxidized transmission fluid leads to deposits of sludge and varnish in the transmission, a rapid increase in the corrosion of the copper-alloy bearings, hardening of the various elastomeric seals, plus excessive glazing, flaking and wear of the clutch-plates and bands. Any one of these conditions is bad news for your transmission and wallet, but all of them can be avoided by simply changing your transmission fluid before oxidation can alter its protective abilities. The big question is: How do we know when the time to change the transmission fluid has arrived?Most of the auto manufacturers have recommended intervals for the changing of the transmission fluid in the owners manuals. Most often the recommendations call for fluid changes at somewhere between 12,000 and 30,000 miles. If you follow those recommendations, you will probably get many years of good service from your transmission. That, of course, applies to a regular street driven passenger car.

Extending the life of your Transmission

The most important thing for extending the life of your automatic transmission under normal driving conditions is without a doubt the changing of your transmission fluid. Below is a quick list of the things you can do to extend the life of your automatic transmission. Here at Transmasters Transmission we wanted to give you a deeper understanding why changing your Transmission fluid is so important. After the quick list below we will give you a detailed explanation of why this is so important.
The Quick List

1.) Change transmission fluid every 15,000 miles or at least once a year.

2.) Allow your vehicle to warm up in cold weather before putting into gear.

3.) Always attempt to come to a complete stop when changing from reverse to drive or drive to reverse.

4.) Avoid rocking back and forth when you are stuck in snow or mud whenever possible.

5.) Never drive when fluid is low (below the add line) or when fluid is leaking.

6.) Do not use your transmission for braking such as downshifting when getting off the freeway.

7.) Do not perform high performance starts, or spinning of your tires except in emergencies.

8.) Use your emergency brake when parking on an incline. Reduces stress on the parking pawl (pin) and linkage.

9.) Try not to bump the curb when parking on the street. This causes brief but unnecessary loads on the front wheel drive shaft of your transmission's trans-axle. Some mechanics might argue this point since the bearings and the drive shaft components of your transmission have such high load tolerances. They can take quite a pounding before they fail.

Nevertheless we still recommend that if you're in a habit of bumping the curb as a normal parking routine that you refrain from it as much as possible. It will save wear an tear on your tires as well as other components and could extend the life of your transmission. Simply put never put unnecessary stresses or fatigue on a component that can be easily avoided by a change in driving habits. It is always better to be safe than sorry.

10.) Do not neglect to repair an overheating engine problem. Some overheating engine problems do not get hot enough to prevent a person from driving the car. However when you drive a car with excessive engine temperatures you are not just putting extreme heat stresses on your engine components, but you are adding additional heat and stress to your transmission via your engine.

Excessive heat is the most dangerous thing to your engine or transmission. Excessive heat and friction is the main reason for most engine and transmission failures. If you reduce the heat back to normal operating temperatures, you increase the life span of your vehicle's transmission and engine.

11.) Remember automatic transmission servicing is usually not included in a normal automotive care service, or tune ups. Many automotive care centers require that you ask for your automatic transmission to be serviced. Be sure to ask for this at least every 12 months or once every 15,000 miles, whichever comes first.

12.) If ever you suspect that there may be something wrong with your auto transmission, don’t take chances – get your vehicle to a transmission repair shop as soon as possible. An early diagnostic and repair could save you thousands.


Changing your fluid the most important thing


temperature

The main reasons why changing your transmission fluid is the most important thing you can do to extend the life of your transmission.

For optimum protection, change the fluid and filter every 15,000 miles


Why Automatic Transmission fluid wear out.

An automatic transmission creates a lot of internal heat through friction: the friction of the fluid churning inside the torque converter, friction created when the clutch plates engage, and the normal friction created by gears and bearings carrying their loads.
torque-converter


It doesn't take long for the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to heat up once the vehicle is in motion. Normal driving will raise fluid temperatures to 175 degrees F., which is the usual temperature range at which most fluids are designed to operate. If fluid temperatures can be held to 175 degrees F., ATF will last almost indefinitely -- say up to 100,000 miles. But if the fluid temperature goes much higher, the life of the fluid begins to plummet. The problem is even normal driving can push fluid temperatures well beyond safe limits. And once that happens, the trouble begins.


valve-body


clutches


At elevated operating temperatures, ATF oxidizes, turns brown and takes on a smell like burnt toast. As heat destroys the fluid's lubricating qualities and friction characteristics, varnish begins to form on internal parts (such as the valve body) which interferes with the operation of the transmission. If the temperature gets above 250 degrees F., rubber seals begin to harden, which leads to leaks and pressure losses. At higher temperatures the transmission begins to slip, which only aggravates overheating even more. Eventually the clutches burn out and the transmission calls it quits. The only way to repair the damage now is with an overhaul -- a job which can easily run upwards of $2400 on a late model front-wheel drive car or minivan.

As a rule of thumb, every 20 degree increase in operating temperature above 175 degrees F. cuts the life of the fluid in half!

At 195 degrees F., for instance, fluid life is reduced to 50,000 miles. At 220 degrees, which is commonly encountered in many transmissions, the fluid is only good for about 25,000 miles. At 240 degrees F., the fluid won't go much over 10,000 miles. Add another 20 degrees, and life expectancy drops to 5,000 miles. Go to 295 or 300 degrees F., and 1,000 to 1,500 miles is about all you'll get before the transmission burns up.

According to the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association, 90% of ALL transmission failures are caused by overheating. And most of these can be blamed on worn out fluid that should have been replaced.

On most vehicles, the automatic transmission fluid is cooled by a small heat exchanger inside the bottom or end tank of the radiator. Hot ATF from the transmission circulates through a short loop of pipe and is thus "cooled." Cooling is a relative term here, however, because the radiator itself may be running at anywhere from 180 to 220 degrees F.!

Tests have shown that the typical original equipment oil cooler is marginal at best. ATF that enters the radiator cooler at 300 degrees F. leaves at 240 to 270 degrees F., which is only a 10 to 20% drop in temperature, and is nowhere good enough for extended fluid life.

Any number of things can push ATF temperatures beyond the system's ability to maintain safe limits: towing a trailer, mountain driving, driving at sustained high speeds during hot weather, stop-and-go driving in city traffic, "rocking" an automatic transmission from drive to reverse to free a tire from mud or snow, etc. Problems in the cooling system itself such as a low coolant level, a defective cooling fan, fan clutch, thermostat or water pump, an obstructed radiator, etc., will also diminish ATF cooling efficiency. In some cases, transmission overheating can even lead to engine coolant overheating! That's why there's a good demand for auxiliary add-on transmission coolers.


Auxiliary Cooling


transmission-cooler

An auxiliary transmission fluid cooler is easy to install and can substantially lower fluid operating temperatures. The plate/fin type cooler is somewhat more efficient than the tube and fin design, but either can lower fluid temperatures anywhere from 80 to 140 degrees when installed in series with the stock unit. Typical cooling efficiencies run in the 35 to 50% range.


Automatic Transmission Fluid Types

What kind of automatic transmission fluid should you use in your transmission? The type specified in your owner's manual or printed on the transmission dipstick. In regards to domestic models and older models these are important instructions below.

For older Ford automatics and certain imports, Type "F" is usually required. Most Fords since the 1980s require "Mercon" fluid, which is Ford's equivalent of Dexron II.

For General Motors, Chrysler and other imports, Dexron II is usually specified.

NOTE: Some newer vehicles with electronically-controlled transmissions require Dexron IIe or Dexron III fluid. GM says its new long-life Dexron III fluid can be substituted for Dexron II in older vehicle applications.

CAUTION: Using the wrong type of fluid can affect the way the transmission shifts and feels. Using Type F fluid in an application that calls for Dexron II may make the transmission shift too harshly. Using Dexron II in a transmission that requires Type F may allow the transmission to slip under heavy load, which can accelerate clutch wear.


CAUTION: Do not overfill the transmission.


transmission-cooler

CAUTION: Do not overfill the transmission. Too much fluid can cause the fluid to foam, which in turn can lead to erratic shifting, oil starvation and transmission damage. Too much fluid may also force ATF to leak past the transmission seals.

Add half a quart at a time until the dipstick shows full. The transmission really isn't full yet because the dipstick should be checked when the fluid is hot, and the engine is idling with the gear selector in Park. So start the engine, drive the vehicle around the block, then recheck the fluid level while the engine is idling and add fluid as needed until the dipstick reads full.

[pervert_4u]

Va salut D-nule Automaticul si totodata respectele mele pentru tot ceea ce faceti petru acest club si in meseria dumneavoastra.Veau sa va intreb!
-am un mercedes w210 E320 CDI,vreau sa imi spuneti ce tip de cutie am si ce ulei ar trebui folosit la acest tip de cutie cat si cateva date despre aceasta cutie daca puteti?
-Cat ma costa schimbul de ulei si de filtru la cutie la dumneavoastra cu piesele si manopera?va multumesc din suflet si cu aceasta ocazie va urez si Sarbatori Fericite dvs si familiei dvs!O seara buna!

[automaticul]

Va salut D-nule Automaticul si totodata respectele mele pentru tot ceea ce faceti petru acest club si in meseria dumneavoastra.Veau sa va intreb!
-am un mercedes w210 E320 CDI,vreau sa imi spuneti ce tip de cutie am si ce ulei ar trebui folosit la acest tip de cutie cat si cateva date despre aceasta cutie daca puteti?
-Cat ma costa schimbul de ulei si de filtru la cutie la dumneavoastra cu piesele si manopera?va multumesc din suflet si cu aceasta ocazie va urez si Sarbatori Fericite dvs si familiei dvs!O seara buna!

Buna ziua , scrieti-mi seria de caroserie pentru a indentifica modelul de cutie care il are masina.

[pervert_4u]

buna ziua , scrieti-mi seria de caroserie pentru a indentifica modelul de cutie care il are masina.

wdb2100261b425173

[automaticul]

wdb2100261b425173

Buna seara, cutia este 722.6, pentru schimbul de ulei la cutie sunt necesare: filtru de ulei , garnitura baie ulei, conectorul electric si 8 litri de ulei A0019896803 + manopera = 950 lei,piesele sunt pe stoc , nu necesita comanda si sunt mercedes.
Daca vrei sa facem schimbul de ulei la cutie , trebuie sa ajungi la atelier cand doresti http://www.nordautoexpress.ro/2011/12/reparatii-cutii-automate/.

[pervert_4u]

Buna seara, cutia este 722.6, pentru schimbul de ulei la cutie sunt necesare: filtru de ulei , garnitura baie ulei, conectorul electric si 8 litri de ulei A0019896803 + manopera = 950 lei,piesele sunt pe stoc , nu necesita comanda si sunt mercedes.
Daca vrei sa facem schimbul de ulei la cutie , trebuie sa ajungi la atelier cand doresti http://www.nordautoexpress.ro/2011/12/reparatii-cutii-automate/.

Va multumesc mult si cu siguranta la dumneavoastra voi apela imediat dupa sarbatori.

[K I D]

Buna seara automaticul! Va pot deranja in aceasta seara cu un telefon ?

[automaticul]

Buna seara, pentru a mai descurca un pic itele cutiilor automate , iata fotografii cu piesele noi pentru cutia care tocmai ce a fost dezmembrata saptamana trecuta, chiar daca unii vor spune , ei si ce!, vreau sa vedeti de cate garnituri si o-ringuri are nevoie o cutie automata pentru a functiona, DAR in acelasi timp ganditi-va ,cat timp pot rezista aceste garnituri in uleiul care de regula are 100 grade si poate nici nu este schimbat
Par banale aceste garnituri ,DAR daca , un singur o-ring sau garnitura nu etanseaza cum trebuie ,incepe acel proces ireversibil de care vor sa fuga toti , reparatia cutiei.

[automaticul]

Buna seara automaticul! Va pot deranja in aceasta seara cu un telefon ?

Buna seara, bineinteles nu este nici o problema .

[nstoe]

Buna seara, pentru a mai descurca un pic itele cutiilor automate , iata fotografii cu piesele noi pentru cutia care tocmai ce a fost dezmembrata saptamana trecuta, chiar daca unii vor spune , ei si ce!, vreau sa vedeti de cate garnituri si o-ringuri are nevoie o cutie automata pentru a functiona, DAR in acelasi timp ganditi-va ,cat timp pot rezista aceste garnituri in uleiul care de regula are 100 grade si poate nici nu este schimbat
Par banale aceste garnituri ,DAR daca , un singur o-ring sau garnitura nu etanseaza cum trebuie ,incepe acel proces ireversibil de care vor sa fuga toti , reparatia cutiei.

Asi vrea sa-l cunosc si eu pe cel care ar spune "ei si ce" despre asemenea photo / prezentari .

Multumim Cristi ! .

[alin6231i]

Buna seara si LA MULTI ANI

Sunt posesorul de aproximativ 4 luni al unui w211 cu seria WDB2110061A118329 faricata in 2002.
As avea rugamintea sa-mi spuneti ce tip de cutie are masina, cat sunt de bune si de fiabile aceste cutii si ce trebuie facut avand in vedere ca are urmatoarele simtome:
-de cateva saptamani, cand plec dimineata cu ea dimineata in ,,S'' pleaca usor si fara nici un soc sau trepidatie dupa loc dar la schimbarea treptei (banuiesc ca atunci cand intra in treapta a 2 a) se simte un soc, adica ca atunci cand te loveste usor o alta masina din spate, dupa care, schimba fara socuri toate celelalte trepte. Acest soc se intampla decat cand plec cu ea dupa loc iar cutia este pe S (daca plec cu ea in W schimba fara nici un soc).
-socul descris mai sus se simte doar cand este motorul rece dupa 5-10 km este aproape insesizabil.
-de cand am achizitionat aceasta masina, cand schimb din D in R sau invers (uneori chiar si atunci cand schimb din P in R sau D) se simte un soc foarte usor aproape insesizabil fata de cel descris mai sus.

Masina are aproximativ 200.000 de km reali (nu stiu exact pt ca au fost "aranjati" de fostul proprietar) pe bord are doar 120.000 de km.
Este folosita zilnic, in mare parte in oras (Craiova).
Eu locuiesc in Craiova. Cei de la reprezentanta mi-au zis ca ar costa pana in 1000 de lei operatiunea de schimbare a filtrului, garniturii si uleiului din cutie.
In consecinta, este cazul sa-mi fac griji?
Multumesc anticipat!

[automaticul]

Sunt posesorul de aproximativ 4 luni al unui w211 cu seria WDB2110061A118329 faricata in 2002.
As avea rugamintea sa-mi spuneti ce tip de cutie are masina, cat sunt de bune si de fiabile aceste cutii si ce trebuie facut avand in vedere ca are urmatoarele simtome:
-de cateva saptamani, cand plec dimineata cu ea dimineata in ,,S'' pleaca usor si fara nici un soc sau trepidatie dupa loc dar la schimbarea treptei (banuiesc ca atunci cand intra in treapta a 2 a) se simte un soc, adica ca atunci cand te loveste usor o alta masina din spate, dupa care, schimba fara socuri toate celelalte trepte. Acest soc se intampla decat cand plec cu ea dupa loc iar cutia este pe S (daca plec cu ea in W schimba fara nici un soc).
-socul descris mai sus se simte doar cand este motorul rece dupa 5-10 km este aproape insesizabil.
-de cand am achizitionat aceasta masina, cand schimb din D in R sau invers (uneori chiar si atunci cand schimb din P in R sau D) se simte un soc foarte usor aproape insesizabil fata de cel descris mai sus.

Masina are aproximativ 200.000 de km reali (nu stiu exact pt ca au fost "aranjati" de fostul proprietar) pe bord are doar 120.000 de km.
Este folosita zilnic, in mare parte in oras (Craiova).
Eu locuiesc in Craiova. Cei de la reprezentanta mi-au zis ca ar costa pana in 1000 de lei operatiunea de schimbare a filtrului, garniturii si uleiului din cutie.
In consecinta, este cazul sa-mi fac griji?
Multumesc anticipat!

Buna seara, seria de motor 646961 30 031439, seria de cutie722699 03 931092, probabil ce nu stiai este ca masina a fost taxi 337 TAXIMETER INTEGRATED INTO REARVIEW MIRROR, 450 TAXI - INTERNATIONAL, 356 ROOF ANTENNA, REAR CENTER FOR TAXI-RADIO ETC., 934 TAXI EMERGENCY ALARM SYSTEM, 937TAXI/RENTAL VEHICLE - REINFORCEMENT PACKAGE, 2XXL FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY, DECI NU ORICE TAXI , CI DIN GERMANIA
Pretul pentru un schimb de ulei la cutie , intradevar costa pana la 1000 lei care include filtru , garnitura de baie ulei cva, conector cutie, ulei 8 litri A001 989 68 03, + manopera.
Socurile sunt frecvente la aceste modele de cutii , datorita km multi care le au masinile , tampoanele, converterul , sunt unele dintre piesele care pot provoca aceste socuri.


Aceasta masina are km reali cand moi calugari eu (nu trebuie sa te superi), ASA IMI VINE SA VA STRANG DE GAT , PE MAJORITATEA , CAT DE NAIVI PUTETI FI , CREDETI CA IN GERMANIA UMBLA CAINI CU COVRIGI IN COADA, SAU IN ROMANIA, SAU IN ALTA TARA DE PE GLOB , NU TOT OAMENI SUNT , DE CE CREDETI CA IN ALTA TARA SUNT OAMENI CORECTI , DE CE CREDETI toate gogosile pe care vi le vand altii , nu va ajung cele pe care le vand ROMANII..

[alin6231i]

Buna seara, seria de motor 646961 30 031439, seria de cutie722699 03 931092, probabil ce nu stiai este ca masina a fost taxi 337 TAXIMETER INTEGRATED INTO REARVIEW MIRROR, 450 TAXI - INTERNATIONAL, 356 ROOF ANTENNA, REAR CENTER FOR TAXI-RADIO ETC., 934 TAXI EMERGENCY ALARM SYSTEM, 937TAXI/RENTAL VEHICLE - REINFORCEMENT PACKAGE, 2XXL FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY, DECI NU ORICE TAXI , CI DIN GERMANIA
Pretul pentru un schimb de ulei la cutie , intradevar costa pana la 1000 lei care include filtru , garnitura de baie ulei cva, conector cutie, ulei 8 litri A001 989 68 03, + manopera.
Socurile sunt frecvente la aceste modele de cutii , datorita km multi care le au masinile , tampoanele, converterul , sunt unele dintre piesele care pot provoca aceste socuri.


Aceasta masina are km reali cand moi calugari eu (nu trebuie sa te superi), ASA IMI VINE SA VA STRANG DE GAT , PE MAJORITATEA , CAT DE NAIVI PUTETI FI , CREDETI CA IN GERMANIA UMBLA CAINI CU COVRIGI IN COADA, SAU IN ROMANIA, SAU IN ALTA TARA DE PE GLOB , NU TOT OAMENI SUNT , DE CE CREDETI CA IN ALTA TARA SUNT OAMENI CORECTI , DE CE CREDETI toate gogosile pe care vi le vand altii , nu va ajung cele pe care le vand ROMANII..

Buna seara,
Faptul ca masina a fost taxi stiu! Ce nu stiu este de ce pe tester apar doar 200 si umpic de mii de km (avand in vedere ca masina a fost pregatita pentru taxi, a avut un singur proprietar in Romania, a fost inmatriculata la noi in 2003), iar din punct de vedere al motorului, functioneaza impecabil (asa mi-au spus baietii de la un service bun din Craiova) .
Va rog nu va suparati, dar intrebam ce este de facut (in cazul in care se poate remedia) si cat de mult conteaza pentru ea daca-i schimb uleiul in cutie.
Cat de mult va permite timpul (din ce am vazut pe acest forum aveti un service si sunteti cam ocupat) sa-i facem o inspectie mai detaliata in care sa vedem ce este de schimbat, cat de mult renteaza(financiar), cat timp dureaza si daca le putem face intr-o singura zii (sunt din Craiova) deoarece nu as vrea sa fac mai multe drumuri in Bucuresti. Adica intr-o singura zii sa vin si sa si plec.
Multumesc anticipat!